Tokyo

Blooming cherry blossoms should be reason enough to visit Tokyo in spring. Likewise, the mellow hues of autumn also provide a poignant example of the Japanese aesthetic. The muggy summer is not for everyone; just remember there's roughly 5500 persons per sq km (over 14,000 per sq mi)! It might also be wise to avoid an even more crowded Tokyo during the Golden Week national holiday, from 29 April to 5 May.

Tokyo kicks off its year with high, cold winter days and, occasionally, snowfalls. Though temperatures sometimes drop below freezing, in general the winter months are reasonable with the right kind of clothing. Spring brings pleasant, warm days. Summer is hot and muggy. The temperature and humidity are at their worst in August and late June can see torrential rains that pound the city during some monsoon seasons. After spring, autumn is the most pleasant season. Temperatures cool down to a cosy level and days are often clear and fine.

overview

Once you get your head around the Tokyo train system, with its many different lines and systems, it's probably the best way to get around. Buses are frustrating: they often get gridlocked and the services end early. Taxis are exorbitantly expensive, and walking, although a fine way to explore within neighbourhoods, is difficult between them. Cycling would clearly be madness. Do as the locals do and stick to the train.

train

The Tokyo train system can seem a bit daunting at first. Many travellers' initial confusion arises from the fact that Tokyo is serviced by a combination of JR, private inner-city subway lines and private suburban lines. This sometimes necessitates switching between not just different trains but also different train systems. There are also 12 subway lines operated by two companies. The subway services are essentially the same and have good connections from one to the other, although they do operate under separate ticketing systems.

bus

Many Tokyo residents and visitors spend a considerable amount of time in the city without ever using the bus network. This is partly because the train services are so good and partly because the buses are much more difficult to use. In addition, buses are at the mercy of Tokyo's sluggish traffic flow. Services also tend to finish fairly early in the evening, making buses a pretty poor alternative all round.

tram

Tokyo has one solitary tram service still in operation. It doesn't really go anywhere of interest, but it does pass through a couple of areas that haven't been claimed by redevelopment.

taxi

The frustrations, jams and high tolls that plague the driver in Tokyo may tempt you to try a taxi, but stick to the public transport system unless you are particularly plump of pocket.

walking

The only way to explore areas like Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ueno is on foot, but walking between districts is hard work; you can quickly find yourself in a wasteland of grey buildings and overhead expressways.

bicycle

Unless you have a deathwish, don't even consider cycling on the Tokyo streets; most locals actually ride on the pavement. There are often piles of discarded bikes around railway stations, but don't be tempted; if it is stolen and you're pulled over by the police to have your serial number checked (which often happens), you may find yourself in trouble.

Airport

So much sushi, so little time.

Eating is half the fun of being in Japan, and the adventurous foodie will be delighted to know that nihon ryori (Japanese food) is far more than the sushi, tempura and sukiyaki for which it is best known in other countries: there are over 20 different forms of Japanese cooking to sample.

Big Umeboshi's nightlife...Izakaya or izn't a kaya?

It isn't hard to find something to keep you out of trouble in Tokyo. Or get you into it. Whether it's kabuki (traditional Japanese theatre) or karaoke, izakaya (half restaurant-half pub) or hot-spring hopping, the Big Umeboshi - the 'Giant Sour Plum' - has it all, all year round.

Sightseeing with that sardines-in-a-can kind of energy.

What makes Tokyo fascinating is the tension between mammoth scale and meticulous detail. Sightseeing in its streets can be a neon assault that leaves you elated and breathless, or an encounter with the exquisite art of understatement. Jump aboard the subway and see how one city is really many.

Tokyo's shopping areas are more of an experience than an expedition.

As any Tokyo-ite knows, you are what you buy. Shopping defines this city. The sacred shrines in this consumer culture are the opulent depato (department stores). They are pervasive, irresistible and omnipotent - odds are you'll leave with a radio-controlled robotic dog tucked under your arm.