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Is LA a figment of its own imagination?
Starlit and moonstruck, LA beguiles scores of curious tourists, hopeful starlets and wannabe rock gods every day. But there's a lot more to it than the siren call of fame and fortune. It's a thriving, multilayered city filled with world-class everything: museums, music, food, architecture, gardens.
Downtown 213; Hollywood & Mid-City 323; Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Malibu, Venice 310; Long Beach 562; Pasadena & San Fernando Valley 818; Anaheim & Newport Beach 714
The peak season in LA is July/August, when every day is sunny and hot; reservations and a fat wallet to match soaring prices are highly recommended. If you prefer smaller crowds and lower prices, the shoulder seasons (March to May and September to November) are a good bet, but remember that June often brings heavy coastal fog. Chances of rain are greatest in winter, but less smog and congestion make up for the occasional sprinkle. The city gets busy around major holidays, especially Thanksgiving.
The peak season in LA is July/August, when every day is sunny and hot; reservations and a fat wallet to match soaring prices are highly recommended. If you prefer smaller crowds and lower prices, the shoulder seasons (March to May and September to November) are a good bet, but remember that June often brings heavy coastal fog. Chances of rain are greatest in winter, but less smog and congestion make up for the occasional sprinkle. The city gets busy around major holidays, especially Thanksgiving.
Los Angeles enjoys a Mediterranean climate and is protected from extremes of temperature and humidity by the mountain ranges to its north and east. August and September are the hottest months, January and February the coolest and wettest. Offshore breezes keep the beach communities cooler in summer and warmer in winter than those further inland, particularly the San Fernando Valley, which is the hottest area in summer and the coldest in winter. The average LA temperature is around 70°F (21°C), though smog-shrouded summer days can get well over 90°F (32°C), while winter temperatures around 55°F (12°C) are not uncommon.
Contrary to popular belief, LA does have a fairly comprehensive public transport system. Nearly all communities are served by buses, and a subway and light rail system hits many of the major area attractions, such as Hollywood and Universal Studios. Still, the automobile remains by far the most popular mode of transportation. Before rushing headlong into the bumper-to-bumper melee, consider all of your transport options.
getting around taxiUnlike New York or Chicago, LA isn't a place you can just thrust your arm out and expect to hail a taxi. Except for those lined up outside airports, train stations, bus stations and major hotels, cabbies respond to phone calls rather than hand waves.
getting around carLA sprawls over such a huge area that, unless time is no factor or money is extremely tight, you're going to want to spend some time behind the wheel of a car. Despite the sheer volume of traffic, the city isn't hard to navigate if you stick to the major arterials and avoid rush hours. If you want to get down to the nitty-gritty of LA streets, grab a copy of the Thomas Guides map book.
getting around busAlthough LA is definitely built for cars, it is possible to get around on public transport. Main public bus operators include: Metro, which goes most places; Big Blue Bus, which serves the West LA area; Culver City Bus, which does Culver City and the Westside; and DASH, operating within local communities, including Hollywood and Downtown.
getting around walkingTell an Angeleno, 'I'll just walk' and they're bound to try talking you out of it. Unlike other American cities, LA was built horizontally rather than vertically, and all but a few strips were developed with motorists, rather than pedestrians, in mind. If you hate to see all those sidewalks going to waste, sections of Downtown, Santa Monica, Beverly Hills and central Hollywood are walkable - once you've driven or caught a bus there.
getting around underground railMetro Rail's Red Line subway runs between Downtown's Union Station and North Hollywood via Hollywood and Universal Studios. The light-rail Blue Line goes from Union Station to Long Beach, Norwalk and Redondo Beach.
This cross-roads culture tosses just about everything in the melting pot.
Los Angeles is the culinary capital of the US West Coast. Some would even argue that it represents the cutting edge of cuisine in the western hemisphere. Why? Because it's willing to experiment, and it stands at a global crossroads that attracts a cosmopolitan mix of people, foods and cuisines.
Stay up all night and watch the stars come out.
LA's nightlife is more than just drunken starlets tousling with paparazzi. A week's worth of nocturnal adventures in LA could see you bouncing from It-crowd clubs to designer bars to hair-metal temples to comedy clubs to ground-breaking theatre.
Stargazing in LA - anywhere else it'd be called 'stalking'.
LA has so many celeb tours and shows to attend you could forget to do anything else. However, there is culture aplenty, including blockbuster museums and the mindbending Walt Disney Concert Hall. In summer, a night of music at the Hollywood Bowl is a treat for ears and soul.
Are you a mall rat or a vintage kitty-cat?
Although 'Gapification' (the proliferation of retail chains like the Gap, Banana Republic, Pottery Barn and others) is widespread and malls abound, countless offbeat shops in LA's many distinct neighbourhoods will reward those with a knack for browsing and a flair for the unusual.