This Ultra-luxe Cruise Is the Best Way to See Antarctica

The thrill of an expedition cruise in Antarctica with Silversea is found in once-in-a-lifetime experiences on the water and the land as well as the luxurious comfort and seamless service you’ll find onboard, writes Kirsten Galliott. Here’s what you can expect on your adventure.

Kayak among giants

“We go out paddling and attain nirvana,” says lead kayak guide Tyler Stern. I’m as close to the beating heart of Antarctica as I can imagine. On the water, in a kayak, surrounded by icebergs the size of buildings. The sea is a mirror, the air is pristine and the only sound I can hear is the clunk of the paddle as I push it through the “brash” (chunks of floating ice). When I stop, in awe of my surroundings and determined to remember this moment for the rest of my life, I can almost hear the ice breathing. For a place so remote, it feels so alive. I drift closer to an enormous berg that looks like a misshapen scoop of gelato, mesmerised by its pale blue glow. That’s when I hear Stern yell at me to move back – now. “There are some very large pieces of ice out here and that can be dangerous,” he had told us in the briefing. “So stay away from the ice if you value your life.”

Unlike Captain Robert Falcon Scott, who discovered the Antarctic Plateau but perished after making it to the South Pole, I will get home in one piece. But I have a new understanding of the explorers who risked their lives in this fragile, frozen continent that’s twice the size of Australia. The landscape – 98 per cent of which is covered in ice – is utterly beguiling and constantly changing. The ice shifts from blinding white to baby blue. Under a threatening sky, it growls gunmetal grey. And with oceans continuing to warm, it is more precious than ever. “You will be changed by the beauty of Antarctica,” promises expedition leader Peter Bergman.

Be ready for unexpected moments

On a Zodiac, a fat rubber dinghy, hurtling towards Enterprise Island off the Antarctic Peninsula, the eight-deck Silver Endeavour – which Silversea describes as “the most luxurious expedition ship ever built” – disappears behind me. That’s when we see the first whale. And then another. Orcas! “There are different ecotypes of orcas,” explains Stern as we stop the Zodiac to wait and watch. “They don’t interbreed or mix with each other. This particular one is called the Gerlache orca [named after the Gerlache Strait, the channel we’re floating in] and they cruise around here feeding exclusively on penguins.” All up, there are three pods of the distinctive black-and-white killer whales splashing around in front of us – a magic, unexpected moment. Later, I discover that the crew has only ever seen them from the ship. It’s a reminder that every expedition cruise is different. “It’s all about having an intimate experience with wildlife and getting you to places that are often not a possibility,” says Bergman. “We want to be good custodians for Antarctica and all the wildlife here.”

Get to know the locals

“We laugh at their agility on the shore but penguins fly in the water,” says expedition guide Alexandra Hansen. It’s true that on land, the three types of penguins I see on our six-day cruise – the gentoo, chinstrap and Adélie – are comically clumsy, waddling down “penguin highways” through the snow and towards the sea, often falling flat on their faces. That’s because they spend up to 75 per cent of their lives in the ocean, where they leap out of the water like sea lions performing a show. At Mikkelsen Harbour, there are literally thousands of gentoo penguins, their beaks like a slash of orange lipstick. I trudge up the snowy hill (my boots disinfected to protect the vulnerable landscape) and carefully dodge the tuxedoed birds as they shuffle about. “You must keep a distance of five metres,” says Bergman. “If wildlife is coming to you, you need to step away and maintain your distance.”

It’s mating season and I watch the female gentoo penguins throw their heads back and honk loudly. They’re not going to give Barry White a run for his money but the monotonous “song” does the trick. “They’ll wait until the snow has melted – around December – to lay their eggs,” says expedition guide Denis Elterman, who adds that the gentoos are among the most successful breeders. “No snow means a greater chance of them incubating their eggs successfully.” I yearn to witness the next stage – the hatching chicks, the servant parents – but that’s later in the season in Antarctica, when the ice thins and the ocean swells with seals and whales. Either way, the seventh continent defies all expectations. “Antarctica has such a power to it,” says Hansen. “It’s not until you see it that you have that unique perspective. It’s a completely otherworldly place.”

The onboard experience brought to you by Silversea

Explorers of the past felt the full power of Antarctica’s extremes – but you won’t have to while onboard Silversea’s expedition ship. As you glide past curious Antarctic fur seals and marvel at towering icebergs, your sumptuous suite (complete with champagne on ice), fine dining and a decadent day spa await.

Meet attentive crew who anticipate your every need

Every element of a Silversea cruise is designed to make your experience as unforgettable as the landscapes and with a near one-to-one crew-to-guest ratio, it’s the little things that take it to the next level. Whether it’s a well-pressed jacket waiting after a day exploring pristine shores or a warm drink offered upon returning from a Zodiac excursion, you’ll find personalised service throughout your journey.

Learn from experts then luxuriate in the spa

Each day brings fresh insights from the expedition team’s professional naturalists, biologists and geologists. Comprehensive lectures will transform your understanding of Antarctica’s ecosystem, while casual conversations with these experts over dinner add layers of meaning to each shore excursion. After enriching the mind, tend to the body in the ship’s spa. Sink into bliss with a deep-tissue massage after an exhilarating Zodiac excursion or find your flow in a yoga class as views of icebergs and snow-capped peaks fill the floor-to-ceiling windows.

Enjoy all-inclusive experiences and fine dining

From guided Zodiac, land and sea tours to essential gear such as expedition parkas and backpacks, everything you need for an epic Antarctic journey is complimentary. From the moment you step aboard and are greeted with a welcome drink, to the thoughtful touches and personalised service throughout your voyage, the diligent crew ensure your experience is nothing short of extraordinary. Along with 24-hour in-suite dining and beverages, guests enjoy all-inclusive meals at each ship’s distinctive venues, curated by top-tier chefs. At The Restaurant, globally inspired dishes like ceviche with jalapeño and citrus complement sweeping ocean vistas while The Grill’s sophisticated alfresco dining could involve filet mignon as the sun sets over the pool deck. Onboard Silversea’s Silver Cloud, Silver Endeavour and Silver Wind ships, you can also indulge in authentic Italian fare such as braised duck with handmade pappardelle at the breezy La Terrazza.

Get comfortable in a plush suite

With one of the highest space-per-guest ratios at sea, Silversea’s all-suite ships feature private viewing platforms ideal for gazing out at the extraordinary polar landscape. Inside, every detail is considered, from exclusive toiletries to walk-in wardrobes. Egyptian linens and a bespoke pillow menu ensure a good night’s sleep to balance the thrill of the day’s adventures. Whether you choose an elegant Veranda Suite or the lavish Owner’s Suite, there are plenty of ways to enjoy your home afloat: you might host dinner for your fellow travellers, unwind in a rainforest shower after expeditions or sip champagne while watching whales breach just beyond your teak balcony.