When Xavier Vigier was asked to design the wine program at Circl, the brief was too good to refuse. The owners wanted to create a list that drew from both the old and new worlds (countries with centuries of winemaking tradition versus more recent entrants) but with a focus on accessibility. “We want to empower access to the world of wine for many, not just the few,” says Vigier, who has crafted wine lists for Ten Minutes by Tractor on the Mornington Peninsula and Sydney’s Catalina.

Vigier and executive chef Elias Salomonsson approach approachability in several ways. The first is in the service. “It’s detailed and professional but always friendly. We like to know about a person’s day and what they’ve come in for,” says Vigier. Then, it’s the huge by-the-glass list – at least 150 – which is broken into categories so guests can go as granular as a cool-climate Australian pinot noir or a “cult and rare” aligoté. Some pours are offered in a range of sizes – 50, 100 and 150ml – so even a wine that may be prohibitively expensive by the bottle can be sampled.

But accessibility is relative and it wouldn’t be a Vigier list without some of the world’s most remarkable wines. “There’s eye-watering depth,” says judge Andrew Graham. “You can start with the wonderful champagne offering, take a flight of rare rosé and end up with a dive into magnificent old Australian shiraz.” Even the most extravagant of wines is accompanied by details that make it less opaque, such as tidbits about vineyard altitude in Burgundy or disgorgement dates for champagnes.

Circl offers something for everyone. “We have customers who have already come in 13 or 14 times,” says Vigier. “Some only come for the top wines. Some come because the food is amazing. Some just want to drink an easy glass of something. We want everyone to have a different journey with wine.”

Circl is also the winner of the Best City Restaurant Wine List, Best List of Wines by the Glass, Best Champagne List, Best Sparkling Wine List, Best Wine List Victoria, Best Listing of Victorian Wines, the Sommeliers’ Choice Award and the Judy Hirst Award for the sommelier responsible for the winning list, Xavier Vigier.

The wine list at Gibney, Perth’s grand seaside grill, is almost as inviting as the wines themselves. It’s packed with detailed notes by the restaurant’s indefatigable group sommelier, Nina Throsby, that “aim to foster a deeper connection between diner and bottle”, according to judge Nicola Reid. The list is a love song to WA as well as an exploration of international classics.

Gibney is also the winner of Australia’s Best Listing of Western Australian Wines.

The flame-fuelled restaurant inside the capital’s QT Hotel is known for its droll political iconography, an impressive steak program and an equally excellent range of wines. There’s a bountiful global selection – including a strong presence of grower champagnes – but the local offerings are where this list really shines. “The diversity of the Canberra region is proudly on show,” says judge Jane Faulkner. “Think Clonakilla to more recent and exciting producers, such as Mada.”

Capitol Bar and Grill is also the winner of Best Listing of ACT Wines.

“McLaren Vale – and more broadly, South Australia – is at the heart of this comprehensive list, as it should be. The experience here is always memorable,” says judge Peter Forrestal. The venue’s extensive Coravin range is a drawcard, as is the maze-like cellar, where guests are invited to browse and choose a wine to suit chef and co-owner Karena Armstrong’s lively, local-focused, South-East Asian-style menu.

The Salopian Inn is also the winner of Best Listing of a Single Region’s Wines.

Known for its richly detailed tasting notes, this list from Margaret River’s main pub is as enjoyable to peruse as it is to choose from. “It brings producers and their wines to life,” says judge Nicola Reid. Margaret River is well-represented but the choice of iconic, rare and limited wines is also infinitely explorable.

This fine-diner’s homage to all things woodfired inside Crown Sydney is seriously impressive, especially its lengthy by-the-glass selection and the exceptional list of New Zealand pinots.

“An unpretentious and well-curated collection of wines where the sommelier’s mark is felt on every page,” says judge Lisa Cardelli of the wine list at Junction Moama in the Murray region of southern NSW. New-generation Victorian varietals make a strong showing, along with a wide representation of international classics. All are designed to pair perfectly with the venue’s approachable but upscale dining menu.

This charming new Euro-style wine bar in Sydney’s Inner West has a taut, considered drinks list designed to highlight its Australian and Mediterranean food flavours. As the name suggests, the aperitifs are a highlight, including barrel-aged cocktails and elaborate absinthe fountains.

Rizla is primarily a loving tribute to riesling, arguably this cool-climate region’s most beloved white grape. A brilliant global selection is offered here, with local Canberra District producers given pride of place on the vast, ever-changing list.

“Bold, lively and challenging” is how judge Peter Forrestal describes the energetic list at this contemporary brasserie. Beautifully put together and annotated, it highlights and celebrates producers who practise sustainable winemaking methods. 

This edgy wine bar in Sydney’s Inner West has everything for the adventurous drinker, from sparkling Jura to lagrein from SA. A choice from the lengthy vermouth and sherry aperitivo list is the perfect thing to team with a plate of charcuterie or pan con tomate.

“A dynamic, extensive selection that will excite novices and experts alike,” says judge Jane Faulkner of this grand Japanese-style dining room’s lengthy sake menu. Guests can stick to the classics in the Hall of Fame collection or explore new names in a flight or tasting set.

Perhaps you don’t expect to find one of the largest collections of Australian gins at a pretty seaside retreat in the NSW Northern Rivers region. But Paper Daisy at Halcyon House is no ordinary restaurant. Cocktails – gin-based or otherwise – are a speciality here and there’s the broad spirit collection to prove it. The eponymous Paper Daisy spritz – Pampelle Ruby, elderflower and DOC prosecco – is an excellent place to begin.