How to Have the Ultimate Escape on Rottnest Island

Disembark the Rottnest Express ferry, take a deep breath of the fresh salt air and let the unhurried pace of Wadjemup (Rottnest Island) work its effect on you. Once known mainly for its clear-water vistas, bakery pies and self-catered lodgings, this island off WA’s coast now offers boutique stays, refined dining, lakeside bars and walking trails that invite visitors to explore its 63 beaches and 20 bays.

Lakeside luxe

A 10-minute stroll from the ferry lies The Lodge Wadjemup, which has become a destination in its own right. The hotel’s latest addition is its Poolhouse precinct – 46 guestrooms (with connecting rooms available for families and groups) arranged around a showstopping pool area (pictured above) that feels worlds away from the mainland. In a palette of sand, clay and crisp white, a respect for the island’s cultural heritage is woven into the experience, with visitors arriving to Acknowledgement of Country cards and greetings in the language of the Noongar, the First Nations peoples of WA’s south-western region. At the centre of the property is The Gathering Ground, a communal space with artworks by local Aboriginal artists Kaedisha Westberg and Tjyllyungoo (Lance Chadd).

Coffee and treats

Easy island days can begin and end at Pelican, a charming retro-inspired kiosk at The Lodge Wadjemup. Start the morning with coffee and brunch from its Euro-inspired letterboard menu, including loaded croque monsieurs, cream-filled choux buns and a could-be-the-best-in-WA continental roll.

Relaxed dining

Grilled Skull Island prawns at Isola Bar e Cibo

A five-minute walk from the lodge, overlooking the white sand of Thomson Bay, is Isola Bar e Cibo, an Italian eatery that serves deceptively simple dishes using locally sourced ingredients. Take a seat on the sun-soaked deck and watch the boats bobbing on the turquoise water. The gamberoni (above left) – wood-grilled whole Skull Island prawns cooked in crayfish butter, capers and lemon – has been known to bring mainlanders over for lunch, who then ask for the sauce to be bottled so they can take it home (takeaway jars are in the works). Follow that with a limoncello spritz and you’ll feel like you’re in the Italian Riviera – if it weren’t for the quokkas hopping over the sand in front of you.

Sunset drinks

The Lodge Wadjemup’s laid-back Sunsets Bar & Dining embraces its setting with an expansive alfresco area framed by towering palms that sway over the nearby lake’s glassy surface. Inside, terracotta-hued chairs and timber tables catch the late afternoon light, while the impressively stocked bar beckons with classic cocktails, local craft beers and a wine list that helpfully categorises drops under “Western Australia”, “Rest of Australia” and “Rest of the World”. Pair the citrusy Frankland Estate Riesling with the tangy pickled vegetables, savoury burnt leeks with romesco and tender-to-the-point-of-vanishing Shark Bay scallops.

Adventure island

The Basin, Rottnest Island, Western Australia

The best way to explore Wadjemup is on two wheels. Hire bikes from Pedal & Flipper and ride to scenic spots like The Basin, Little Salmon Bay, Parakeet Bay and Parker Point. The bikes come in all sizes, with e-bikes for those who’d rather not tackle the undulating hills. To explore on foot, the Wadjemup Bidi is a series of five scenic walking trails that together span 45 kilometres across the island. Set out on a different walk each day and go guided or self-guided with the excellent trail markers and signposts.