Koenji in western Tokyo is one of the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods thanks to its locals. Here, you’ll see punks in full studded regalia, cyber babes in fluoro nylon and outfits inspired by every genre in between. It’s New York’s Brooklyn meets Sydney’s Newtown, complete with live music bars, vintage fashion, rare vinyl and cool cafes. Walk along Koenji Pal Street, an arcade of thrift stores on the south side of Koenji Station, then head to INCredible Coffee for a caffeine fix.

Yes, you can combine sightseeing with fitness in the centre of Tokyo. Follow the Imperial Palace running route, a five-kilometre loop around the outer moats of the residence (which is still in use by the Emperor of Japan today), where several stations along the route are equipped with showers and lockers – and even rentable running gear. Top tip: tackle the journey in a counterclockwise direction and keep to the left side of the path to avoid causing a traffic jam.

Japanese beverage culture is rooted in tradition and craftsmanship, from its centuries-old tea ceremonies to cutting-edge coffee labs. Maikoya’s beloved Kimono Tea Ceremony experience gives guests a chance to not only participate in this ancient ritual but also don traditional dress. For something a little more modern, head over to the bustling Nakameguro neighbourhood for meticulously crafted brews at spots such as Onibus Coffee, where baristas treat pour-over coffee with the same reverence as a tea master. Matcha enthusiasts will find plenty to please their palates, too: Atelier Matcha has worked alongside a wholesaler with a history of matcha-making – from growing to milling – for more than 160 years.

While there are plenty of public bathhouses in Tokyo’s old neighbourhoods, it’s rare to find a spring-fed onsen in the city, particularly one with stunning views. Tokyo Toyosu Manyo Club is a new hot spring complex on Tokyo Bay. It’s open all night, so you could either head to the rooftop foot bath for a soak after a day of walking or before your early-morning stint at the tuna auction at nearby Toyosu Market.

TeamLab Borderless is a digital art museum that’s on everyone’s Tokyo must-do list for good reason. Every exhibit – from the mesmerising mirrored space of LED lights, a room of floating lanterns (the former exhibit Forest of Resonating Lamps, above) to a reimagined traditional tea room where digital flowers bloom across your matcha drink – is designed to immerse guests in a creative, tech-powered universe that stimulates the senses. 

You’ll discover a calm, green respite from the concrete and neon of the city’s centre at Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Spanning 58 hectares, the traditional Japanese-style park spans lakes, teahouses, elegant pavilions and spacious lawns – a perfect setting for a picnic or relaxed lunch. This former daimyo (‘lords’) residence is also one of the top places in Tokyo to watch the seasons change, with bursts of cherry blossoms in spring and vivid red maple leaves in autumn.

Tokyo’s oldest temple is in the heart of Asakusa, a traditional neighbourhood in the city’s north. Get your omikuji fortune slip at the ancient Sensō-ji shrine (they come with English translations) and waft incense from a massive bronze burner for good health. Afterwards, escape the crowds and enjoy a bird’s eye view of the precinct from the Observation Deck at the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center while enjoying a drink far above the busy streets.

It’s easy to forget that Tokyo is crisscrossed by a network of rivers that run out to Tokyo Bay. Exploring the city by water offers a new perspective on its bridges and landmarks: enter the sleek, sci-fi-inspired Suijobus (literally “water bus”), designed by legendary manga artist Leiji Matsumoto, which cruises from the old district of Asakusa to the man-made island of Odaiba. The one-way trip takes around an hour and costs around AUD$17.

Although well into her 90s, avant-garde artist Yayoi Kusama still reigns supreme as one of the world’s most accomplished contemporary artists. With a career spanning a stunning half century, there’s plenty to see from her diverse catalogue of sculpture, painting and installations. Her iconic spots, pumpkins and famed ‘infinity room’ installation can be found in a dedicated museum in a quiet residential area of Shinjuku. Of course, there’s also a shop where you can buy miniature pumpkins and even speckled socks to take home with you.

Pick up vintage kimonos, retro ceramics and traditional woodblock prints at Japan’s largest outdoor bazaar. The Oedo Antique Market is held on the first and third Sunday of the month near Tokyo Station, and features over 100 stalls spruiking all manner of wares. If you’re looking for unique souvenirs and homewares, this is the place.

Once a warehouse district for rice storage during the Edo period, the Sumida River-straddling Kuramae is now one of the city’s most creative neighbourhoods. The area’s industrial spaces are now home to stylish workshops, galleries and cafés: find exceptional coffee at , handcrafted leather goods (and custom fountain-pen ink blends) at Kakimori before stopping for ramen at Musasanjin, where you’ll order your steaming bowl via vending machine.

Less than an hour by train from Tokyo Station, you’ll uncover a bygone era of Japan. The rural villages of Nihon Minka-En Japan Open-Air Folk House Museum look like a scene from a charming Studio Ghibli animation with their original thatched-roof houses that have been carefully transported to the museum from all over Japan, recreating life in the pre-war era. Travellers can even partake in traditional craft activities such as indigo dyeing during their visit.

The Sumida Hokusai Museum, recognisable by its striking angular silver exterior that reflects the changing colours of the sky, is dedicated to one of Japan’s most famous creatives, Katsushika Hokusai. The famous painter and printmaker lived and worked in the area, close to Ryōgoku, the traditional home of sumo wrestling. See Hokusai’s works including Great Wave off Kanagawa and learn about his impact on future manga artists, before spotting sumo in the streets surrounding the museum where many athletes are known to wander. 

A few stops on the standard train (no stops on the rapid train) from Shinjuku, Nakano Broadway is known locally as ‘otaku heaven’ – an eccentric shopping centre brimming with rare collectibles, comics, toys and second-hand clothing. Peruse original Godzilla toys and prized baseball cards, then refuel with coffee and desserts at artist Takashi Murakami’s colourful Cafe Zingaro, complete with retro arcade games.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing is both an iconic photo op as well as a classic Tokyo experience: witness hundreds of people traversing in all directions against a backdrop of neon signs and giant video screens. Earlier this year, the famous Starbucks cafe on the 11th floor of the Tsutaya store reopened — head here for a stellar Lost in Translation-style view of the bustle below. You can also take in the scramble from the sky bridge that connects Shibuya Station with Shibuya Mark City shopping mall. Or head to the open-air Shibuya Sky deck on level 47 of the Shibuya Scramble Square Tower for a bird’s eye view. 

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