The Under-the-radar Daytrip That Tokyo Locals Love

Just under an hour west by train from central Tokyo, Mount Takao offers a refreshing break from the electric pace of the likes of Shibuya and Ginza, making it the weekend retreat of choice for Tokyoites. Located in the western reaches of Tokyo prefecture, the 599-metre peak combines accessible hiking with forested trails, ancient temples and gourmet temptations. From Shinjuku Station, the Keio Line takes you directly to Takaosanguchi Station in less than 50 minutes. Head there early, wear good walking shoes and plan for dinner and a soothing soak before heading back to the city.

When to go

Mount Takao is worth visiting year-round but November is when the landscape is at its best. The slopes are covered in scarlet maples and golden ginkgos and the crisp air makes for pleasant climbing conditions. Locals head out in hiking boots and multi-pocketed vests but you won’t need to pack much to tackle the area’s relatively gentle trails. Spring (March to May) brings cherry blossoms and fresh greenery, while summer offers shaded paths and a break from Tokyo’s heat. Winter is quieter and on clear days Mount Fuji is visible from the summit. It’s best to avoid weekends and holidays when the trails get crowded.

What to do and see

From Takaosanguchi Station, several trails lead to the summit. Trail 1 is the easiest, a 3.8-kilometre paved path with small shrines and viewing points that takes about 90 minutes on foot. A cable car or chairlift can take you halfway if you're short on time or energy. Along Trail 1, be sure to take a moment to admire the Takosugi (Octopus Cedar), an ancient tree with roots that spread out like giant tentacles. The tree is said to bring good luck and open new doors – there’s a small stone octopus nearby that you can touch for luck.

Just off the trail lies the 1200-year-old Takao-san Yakuō-in Temple. Founded in the eighth century, this sacred site is associated with Shugendō, an ancient mountain faith combining elements of Buddhism and Shinto. As you pass beneath the bright-red gates, you’ll find tengu statues – mythical mountain goblins believed to guard the area – as incense drifts through the trees. 

At the base of the mountain, the TAKAO 599 MUSEUM offers a well-curated introduction to the area’s flora and fauna, with projection mapping and displays showcasing local wildlife. Modern and family-friendly, the museum is a good stop either before or after your hike.

After your descent, soothe tired muscles at the Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu, located right next to Takaosanguchi Station. This large public bathhouse features indoor and outdoor pools with mineral-rich waters ideal for a post-hike soak.

What to eat and where

Snack stalls selling traditional treats for nibbling on while traversing the trail are located around the base of the mountain and along the path. A local favourite is mitsufuku dango: chewy rice dumplings on skewers that are brushed with sweet soy sauce or miso paste and grilled over hot coals. You can also find fresh soba noodles, Takao manju (sweet buns filled with red bean paste) and seasonal specialties such as chestnut yokan in autumn. Some restaurants near the summit serve craft beer from nearby Hachioji and, this being Japan, vending machines along the trail also ensure you won’t go thirsty.

For a more refined meal, Ukai Toriyama is a short, free shuttle ride from Takaosanguchi Station and worth the detour. Set in a wooded valley with koi ponds, red lacquer bridges and lantern-lit paths, this long-established restaurant specialises in charcoal-grilled chicken and kaiseki-style multi-course meals. Sit in a private tatami room with views of the forest and watch the servers juggle artfully laden trays as they bustle between pavilions.