The Definitive Dining Guide to Singapore
There are people in Singapore who are going to read this and get very, very mad but food writer Max Veenhuyzen expects nothing less. Whether it’s a $3 bowl of Hokkien noodles or white-tablecloth fine dining, Singaporeans take their food seriously, with every eater harbouring strong opinions on where to find the good stuff. Veenhuyzen, who was born in the city-state, is no exception. He visits the Little Red Dot at least once a month and leans on a network of local chefs, bartenders and other trusted food informants for intel. Here is Veenhuyzen's ultimate dining guide to Singapore.
Best hawker centre: Satay by The Bay
1/15This bustling outdoor hawker centre has much to offer tourists and Singaporeans alike. There is, of course, its rollcall of local food favourites, ranging from barbecued seafood to smoky chicken wings and the centre’s namesake grilled by multiple vendors. Lush plant life and the lack of disposable plates and cutlery are ticks for green thinking. After dinner, head into the Gardens by the Bay for the nightly lightshow starring the Supertrees, towering vertical gardens.
Image credit: Sin Hoi Sai Seafood Restaurant
Best for chilli crab: Sin Hoi Sai
2/15Alfresco dining under the stars. No-corkage BYO. A kitchen that stays open till 3am. All reasons why this easygoing Tiong Bahru seafood restaurant (01-59/61/63, Tiong Bahru Road) has a place in the hearts of many (including the hungry chefs and waiters who flock here for post-service supper). It doesn’t hurt that it’s also an excellent spot to sample one of Singapore’s favourite dishes: fat crabs stir-fried with a sweet, gently spiced tomato sauce. Ordering fried mantou buns and sauce-mopping is as essential to the experience as the towelettes provided to guests.
Image credit: JAAN by Kirk Westaway
Best for views: JAAN by Kirk Westaway
3/15Perched at the top of Swissôtel The Stamford, 70 storeys above ground level, JAAN by Kirk Westaway could so easily hang its hat on those widescreen views of Marina Bay and the ship-dotted Singapore Strait beyond. Yet the cooking of Westaway is just as photogenic as anything outside the window. The contemporary likes of confit egg yolk and caviar on a celeriac custard are as pleasing as the engaging service, while unexpected soundtrack choices (there will be ’90s rock) help diffuse any stuffiness. Dinner, not surprisingly, is special-occasion central but lunch offers a wider range of menu options. Want to maximise your chances of scoring a coveted window table? Book early and limit your party size to two or four.
Image credit: Wee Nam Kee Chicken Rice
Best for chicken rice: Wee Nam Kee Chicken Rice
4/15The discussion about Singapore’s national dish – a comforting trio of poached chook, fragrant rice and chicken soup – is a vigorous one but this veteran is a name regularly mentioned in the debate. The original restaurant has closed but its many branches continue to serve one of the island-nation’s benchmark chicken rices. Head to the Thomson Road outlet (01-08 United Square, 101 Thomson Road; +65 6255 6396) for reliably tender bird, garlicky rice and ginger chilli soy dipping sauce.
Image credit: ION Orchard
Best food court: Food Opera at ION Orchard
5/15As you’d expect from a food court in one of Singapore’s fanciest shopping precincts, Food Opera is a cut above the island-nation’s neighbourhood eating houses. Bentwood chairs and mosaic detailing are a nod to the country’s Peranakan history, while the food options are diverse. Local specialties include the beef noodles at multi-generational Scotts Hwa Heng and the ayam panggang (grilled chicken) at Riverside Indonesian BBQ also has its admirers.
Best for Sunday brunch: Manhattan
6/15The drinking is always fine at Conrad Singapore Orchard’s New York-themed bar – the jurors of the World’s 50 Best Bars have previously voted it as one of Asia’s best – but Sundays see the fun factor dialled right up. Free-flowing cocktails are the name of the game and seasonal fruit Bellinis plus access to a DIY Bloody Mary room ensure everyone wins. Prefer bubbles? You can add unlimited Billecart-Salmon Champagne to your menu. To dine: Maine lobster, shrimp cocktails, hand-rolled bagels and other trappings of the high life.
Image credit: Iggy's
Best for fine dining: Iggy's
7/15Restaurateur Ignatius Chan and his eponymous establishment have long been synonymous with local fine dining. Deftly fusing Asian and European flavours across its seasonal menu, dishes like lightly smoked wild yellowtail sashimi crowned with caviar and sea urchin are typical of the restaurant’s strong Japanese bent. For something different, take the tagliatelle with matsutake, hamo and sudachi for a test drive. Matching vertical tastings of burgundy are optional but highly recommended.
Image credit: Kok Sen
Best for Chinese: Kok Sen
8/15There are fancier places to eat Chinese food but a reputation for robust Cantonese cooking keeps this old-fashioned coffee shop crowded. While office workers flock to Kok Sen (30 Keong Saik Road; +65 6223 2005) at lunch, evenings are prime time, with diners spilling over into the alley behind the restaurant. The crowds – and this place is best for large groups – are here for the kitchen’s wok hei, the smoky “breath of the wok” that lends essential char to dishes such as black bean beef hor fun. The prawn paste chicken, meanwhile, is unmissable.
Image credit: Atlas
Best for cocktails: Atlas
9/15The claim: Singapore is a global cocktail superpower. The proof: As of October 2024, the island state boasts four entries in the influential World’s 50 Best Bars list, including Atlas. A picture of lofty Art Deco grandeur and elegance, the bar is as notable for its exacting cocktails – brisk Martinis sharpened with champagne vinegar, say – as its awesome stockpile of more than a thousand gins (and rising).
Image credit: The Good Beer Company
Best for craft beer: The Good Beer Company
10/15Ice or no ice? Once upon a time, that was the extent of the choice for beer drinkers in Singapore. Then along came Meng Chao and Daniel Goh who, in 2011, opened a craft beer stall in a hawker centre and indelibly changed the drinking landscape. The original outlet has now been incorporated into sister stall Smith Street Taps, while The Good Beer Company has moved to new premises in China Square, offering packaged and tap beers from cult favourites to classic British ales and styles, making it possible to play all manner of beer- and food-matching games.
Best rooftop bar: Spago Bar & Lounge
11/15Life’s problems have a knack of disappearing at Spago, one of the Singaporean interests of Austrian-born American chef Wolfgang Puck. It doesn’t hurt, of course, that the rooftop bar is on the 57th floor of Marina Bay Sands and overlooks the hotel’s infinity pool, with views of the city skyline. Cocktails are available for one or in carafes for four or eight, while the well-stocked bar and bottle service lets guests channel their inner rock star. The snacking, meanwhile, fits the brief for punchy yet casual with Gruyère and cheddar cheeseburgers, burrata, and sashimi.
Image credit: Odette
Best for French cuisine: Odette
12/15After winning over diners at the aforementioned Jaan, Michel Bras protégé Julien Royer swapped the highs of the city’s tallest restaurant for a more down-to-earth setting at the National Gallery. His aspirations, however, are no less lofty. Plush surfaces, double-dressed tables and gold accents make a suitably elegant backdrop for the likes of langoustine ravioli and Aveyron lamb with jus tranché. The service is attentive while the wine list, not surprisingly, showcases plenty of Gallic names.
Image credit: Chye Seng Huat Hardware
Best for coffee: Chye Seng Huat Hardware
13/15Having trouble finding this low-key café in Jalan Besar? Just look for the hordes of hungry cyclists in Lycra. The semi-industrial location might be a nod to its origins as a hole-in-the-wall pop-up but the welcome and the atmosphere are far from robotic. The onsite coffee roaster ensures baristas have access to top-shelf beans, while the menu offers classic café fare — think triple cheese grilled sandwiches with layers of melted red cheddar, gouda and mozzarella and spicy pulled pork burgers.
Image credit: Burnt Ends
Best for bar dining: Burnt Ends
14/15There’s barbecue and then there’s barbecue, Burnt Ends-style, where guests sitting at one of the 18 bar stools enjoy front-row views of the bustling open kitchen. From king crab slathered with garlic brown butter to slow-roasted beef short ribs, everything on the menu gets a lick of smoke from the custom-built grills.
