Patek Philippe's New Calatrava Defines the Art of Refined Simplicity

With its astute design principles set in precious metals, this watch is a masterclass in elegant restraint.
Simplicity is deceptively hard to achieve. But Patek Philippe’s new Calatrava is an example of how to get it right.
Let’s start with the colour of the watch face. Salmon dials maintain a certain prestige in horological circles because traditionally they were reserved for the brands’ most illustrious vintage models. This particular dial is rose-gilt opaline and has a soft warmth that’s eye-catching without being flashy. Set against that backdrop, the hour markers are made of faceted white-gold, while a small seconds subdial at six o’clock anchors the proceedings without disturbing the balance.

Measuring a compact 38 millimetres, the case, with its bevelled bezel and tapered lugs, doesn’t immediately draw your attention. But when you pick up the watch, you’ll feel the reassuring heft and realise it’s made of platinum. Highly resistant and difficult to work with – making a well-finished platinum case demands expert craftsmanship – this precious metal wears its pedigree lightly, right down to the unassuming platinum buckle on a chocolate-brown strap.
Driving this dress watch is a brand-new, hand-wound caliber that delivers a 65-hour power reserve, visible through the exhibition caseback. This is timeless elegance for the wrist and proof that subtlety can be in sync with high style.


