15 Reasons Japan is Even Better in Winter

Searching for an alternative to Niseko’s world-class but extremely popular runs? Head to Kiroro, less than an hour’s drive away. Averaging about 20 metres of pristine powder each year, this under-the-radar gem is among Hokkaido’s most underrated ski resorts. It’s a local favourite and offers varied terrain and plenty of space to carve without the crowds. For luxe ski-in, ski-out accommodation, check into Yu Kiroro, where the two-bedroom Japanese-style suite features a full kitchen and a traditional tatami room.

Three hours north-west from Tokyo by train, Yamanouchi in the Japanese Alps is beloved for its historic hot spring resorts and mountain vistas, both of which really come alive in winter. Stay at the 400-year-old Shibu Onsen Kokuya to don a traditional yukata robe and soak in nine different public baths. All that R&R isn’t just for humans: a 10-minute bus ride out of town takes you to Jigokudani Monkey Park, where pink-faced snow monkeys bathe in the wild.

Want to see Japan in bloom… but without the crowds? Visit in mid-February when the plum blossoms (ume) beat the cherry blossom (sakura) season by a month or so. Less delicate than sakura, the flowers are just as photogenic, bursting in swaths of fuchsia, blush pink and white. Take in the magical sight at Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens in Tokyo, Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka or Kairakuen Garden in Ibaraki.

Nothing says cool weather comfort food quite like a bowl of steaming ramen. Every weekend in December, Osaka’s Ramen Expo hosts 65 rotating vendors serving up everything from classic tonkotsu to fiery broths and vegan options. Stalls are helpfully organised by noodle style, flavour intensity, soup type and region, making it easy to deep dive into Japan’s rich and varied ramen culture.

Famous for its cherry blossoms in spring, Hirosaki Castle in Aomori is equally enchanting during February’s Snow Lantern Festival. Hundreds of glowing ice and snow creations line the castle’s grounds, creating a winter wonderland. Wander candlelit paths, marvel at two-storey snow sculptures, stroll the outdoor gallery of colourful woodblock prints, and watch as one of Japan’s 12 remaining castle towers is illuminated with vibrant light displays.

A five-hour drive north of Tokyo, Zao Onsen is known for 10-kilometre ski runs, sulphur-rich hot springs and juhyo — frost-covered fir trees that resemble giant snow monsters. From December to late February, the otherworldly landscape is lit up at night during the Zao Juhyo Festival, which also includes colourful torchlight skiing and effervescent fireworks. 

Nestled in the Northern Alps about six hours west of Tokyo by train, Gokayama’s thatched cottages look plucked from a fairy tale. The UNESCO-listed villages of Ainokura and Suganuma are blanketed in white come winter, showcasing their steep A-frame farmhouses, designed to withstand heavy snowfall. Many have been transformed into charming inns; book a night at the 350-year-old Gassho Nakaya to experience traditional home-cooked meals served on cushioned floors and snug sleeping setups on tatami mats.

Oshogatsu (New Year) is one of Japan’s most important holidays and where better to celebrate than the country’s former ancient capital? Less raucous than its western counterpart, a highlight is hatsumōde, the year’s first shrine visit. A popular spot is Heian Shrine, which welcomes locals and tourists to its vast courtyard and immaculate gardens over the first few days of January. In southern Kyoto, thousands follow the orange-red torii gates to Fushimi Inari Shrine.

A surreal body of water that shifts from cobalt to aquamarine depending on the season, the Shirogane Blue Pond looks even more fantastical when set against white snow. Dotted with a forest of submerged silver birch trees, it freezes over completely in the deep midwinter. To see it in all its glory, visit at dusk between November and April, when the frozen surface is lit up in even more shades of blue.