Telling the time is all well and good but these timepieces also set the mood.

The world’s best watchmakers know that there’s more to a finely crafted watch than simply telling the time. An argument has been made that timekeeping isn’t actually the primary purpose of these expertly hewn works of art. The more seasoned brands promote their creations as objects of emotion, to be passed down through the generations or to mark key milestones. This enduring role of luxury watches extends even to the mechanics, such as a calendar that’s accurate for hundreds of years, which serves little functional purpose but is symbolically powerful.

For some makers, this sentiment manifests in an abundance of exuberance, all sparkling diamonds and vibrant colours. Others convey this emblematic resonance in more subtle ways – the ingenious sartorial references on a Chanel watch, for example, or the hand-polished angles on the calibre of a Patek Philippe. What’s interesting is that while these two brands inhabit different spheres – Chanel is known primarily as a fashion house and Patek Philippe epitomises the lauded Swiss horological tradition – they’re working from the same playbook by leaning into their core values.

Make no mistake, values matter when it comes to the watches we choose. And in a fiercely competitive market, these intangible differences are more crucial than ever. Case size and dial colour are significant but you could buy a dive watch with a blue dial from a range of companies and they’d be very similar functionally. Before the specifics comes an internal brand alignment based not so much on product but on a long legacy of storytelling. It’s the tale they tell about the wearer – beyond simply marking time – that matters most.

Image credit: Cartier

Cartier Santos de Cartier

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The legend of the Santos de Cartier casts a long shadow, even when it’s in this smaller case. Offered for the first time in Cartier’s diminutive sizing of 27 millimetres, this signature integrated sports watch has all the hallmarks of its larger siblings, with its petite dimensions adding a vintage air.

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang

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Orange is having a moment this year. From pop culture icons, including Taylor Swift and Zendaya stepping out in their own orange fits to the release of the new Cosmic Orange iPhone 17, it’s been all kinds of vibrant of late. Now, the colour is making its mark in the world of horology with Hublot’s striking new Spirit of Big Bang, reimagined in vivid orange ceramic. The model has been a cornerstone of Hublot’s collection for more than a decade, beloved for its fusion of avant-garde design and technical mastery. The new release further sets itself apart through the frosted carbon finish, a detail previously reserved for the Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon. Each fragment of carbon is suspended in motion, placed at random to ensure no two cases are exactly alike. Despite the meticulous craftsmanship, this watch is built for everyday wear, thanks to a scratch and water-resistant (up to 100 metres) case. And, with just 200 pieces released, it’s a true collector’s edition

Image credit: Longines

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

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The Swiss maker has certainly earned its wings in the aviation game. It’s been 100 years since it released its first dual time watch – an essential tool for aviators – and this sharp two-tone addition to its Spirit range is a worthy homage to the legacy.

Image credit: Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Extraordinaire Fruits Enchantés Framboise

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The French maison has made a habit of using techniques honed in fine jewellery to chic effect on its watch dials. This charming version of the Perlée design features a dial adorned with façonne enamel raspberries that are tended by diamond-winged fairies in a rose-gold field.

Image credit: Chanel

Chanel 18K Yellow Gold Première Galon

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Chanel’s latest, the Première Galon, is defined by references to the maison’s iconic motifs. The shape of the case echoes the instantly recognisable N°5 bottle and the bracelet is a reinterpretation of the braid found on Coco’s famous couture suits.

Image credit: Piaget

Piaget Polo Date

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Offering a more leisurely version on the distinctive Polo shape, the Swiss maker’s pastel-dialled sports watch pairs the utility of a 36-millimetre steel case with a healthy dose of sparkle – a total of 96 brilliant-cut diamonds distributed across the dial and framing the bezel.

Image credit: TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Stopwatch

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TAG Heuer and Formula 1 share an enduring history and the titanium Monaco Stopwatch is an expression of their deep connection. Its stark stylings are drawn from Heuer stopwatches of the 1960s and ’70s but thanks to its graphic geometry, the design is still affective today.

Image credit: IWC Schaffhausen

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar

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IWC’s Top Gun series of pilot’s watches is a compelling combination of purposeful design and hard-wearing ceramic case. This pale blue, developed with Pantone, is called Miramar after the former location of the US Navy’s Top Gun flight school.

Image credit: Breguet

Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

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Breguet has marked its 250 years in the watch business with a host of new releases. One standout is this model, which honours the house’s expertise in traditional horology by placing it front and centre, including the brand-new guilloché pattern for the dial in grand feu enamel.

Image credit: Seiko

Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT

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The Japanese brand has cemented its reputation as master of the go-anywhere, do-anything watch with this versatile 42-millimetre model. Not only does it claim its place in Seiko’s legendary range of divers but its GMT function makes it an ideal travelling companion.

Image credit: Hublot

Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer 2025

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Spice up the holiday season with Hublot’s combination of ceramic shades. Never afraid to make a bold statement, this limited-edition take on the Big Bang melds an orange inner case with a sky-blue bezel and navy-blue accents, plus three equally striking interchangeable straps.

Image credit: Chopard

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV

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Not all watches are designed to attract attention. Some – like this Chopard platinum dress watch – are content to fly under-the-radar. The L.U.C collection is regarded as among the finest watchmaking the Swiss company has to offer and this timepiece is the epitome of elegant understatement.

Image credit: Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar

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With its rose-gold case and olive-green dial, the latest Code 11.59 is already off to a strong start. This aesthetic appeal is backed up by an impressive perpetual calendar powered by the Calibre 7138 in a wearable 38-millimetre size.

Image credit: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 7340/1R-010

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The Twenty~4 range is that rare bird, a women’s watch collection that doesn’t shy away from including an array of high-end complications. In this case, the 36-millimetre rose-gold model manages to pack a perpetual calendar into the dainty olive-green dial.

Image credit: Bvlgari

Bvlgari Bvlgari Bronzo Chronograph

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In an intriguing twist to the Italian brand’s lightweight sports watch, the Bronzo Chronograph adds the ancient alloy famed for its rich hue to high-performance rubber case elements. The result is a classically inspired chronograph that’s full of flair.