Reimagining a design legacy, showcasing innovation or marking a new chapter, these are the highlights from the world of horology.

One of the surprising reveals at this year’s Watches and Wonders (W&W), the larger-than-life watch industry trade show held annually in Geneva, wasn’t actually a timepiece – it was the popularity of Formula 1 cars. Not one but five of these sleek vehicles dominated the brands’ expansive booths. TAG Heuer had two, as did IWC, and Tudor mounted one on the wall.

In retrospect, it makes perfect sense. As a product, timepieces are notoriously slow-moving with innovations, revealing them through subtle shifts of size or material. But the watch industry is much more nimble when it comes to promoting itself. For many, F1 stopped being just about the cars and their drivers a few seasons into Drive to Survive. Today, its rapidly growing and well-heeled fanbase represents an unmissable opportunity for luxury watchmakers, who have long understood the power of aspirational sporting events.

Automotive tie-ins weren’t the only reason the adrenaline was pumping at W&W. Rolex had everyone talking with its new technical Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller and Cartier’s Tank à Guichets was lauded as an exceptional heritage revival. But the major trend was brands showing targeted pieces that played to their strengths. Hublot leaned into the Big Bang, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted an update of one of its most popular collections and Grand Seiko championed its technological advances. In a global high-end market that’s less certain than ever before, watch brands that can demonstrate expertise and excellence will continue to do good business.

Image credit: Cartier

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

1/16

First released in 1922, this watch has become one of the definitive examples of horological design. The latest iteration is slightly larger – 38.1 millimetres from lug to lug and 27.75 millimetres across. Bigger but still perfectly proportioned.

Image credit: Piaget

Piaget Sixtie

2/16

Recently, Piaget has been focused on the Swinging Sixties and its own design legacy, and the Sixtie collection is a tribute to that era. This distinctive piece features an unconventional trapezoidal case in two-tone stainless steel and rose-gold, framed with a stepped bezel to complete the remarkable retro design.

Image credit: IWC Schaffhausen

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

3/16

The Swiss watchmaker’s main focus for 2025 is its Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur, an integrated bracelet watch that now comes in a 35-millimetre version. With the choice of silver or black dial in a steel case, the strong silhouette and more versatile size will get it noticed.

Image credit: Longines

Longines Mini DolceVita

4/16

Small watches are big news and the Mini DolceVita range is a superb illustration of this trend. The petite (21.5 millimetres x 29 millimetres) Art Deco-inspired creation makes its presence felt with a combination of stainless steel and yellow-gold edged in twin rows of diamonds.

Image credit: Bulgari

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori

5/16

The serpent has been a totem for Bulgari for decades and the Serpenti Seduttori watch, with its teardrop-shaped case and bracelet of steel scales, is emblematic of the motif. The piece now comes with the brand’s Lady Solotempo automatic movement.

Image credit: Chopard

Chopard Happy Sport

6/16

Ever since it came on the scene in 1993, the singular Happy Sport design – with diamonds free-floating around the dial – has lived up to its name. This edition has a relaxed flair with its 36-millimetre case and khaki-green dial.

Image credit: Chanel

Chanel J12 Bleu Calibre 12.1

7/16

In honour of the 25th anniversary of its pioneering J12 ceramic watch, Chanel has moved away from a black-and-white palette to an elegant matte blue. In addition to the in-house Kenissi self-winding calibre, the standout bezel echoes baguette-cut precious stones.

Image credit: Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate

8/16

The original Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux encapsulated the maison’s Poetry of Time theme with a bi-retrograde display of a lovers’ tryst on a bridge in Paris. In this romantic evolution, the lovers meet at a Parisian open-air dance café.

Image credit: Hublot

Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic

9/16

The renowned Big Bang range turns 20 this year and the Swiss brand wants to highlight its sports watch. This striking 42-millimetre model is powered by the brand’s own automatic chronograph movement and encased in ultra-tough ceramic in a refreshing pastel.

Image credit: TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

10/16

Returning to its role as official timekeeper for the F1, TAG Heuer is marking the occasion with this dynamic reimagining of a 1986 range. It comes in an array of colours (some limited-edition) sporting a steel or rubber strap – and now it has a solar-powered movement.

Image credit: Panerai

Panerai Luminor Marina

11/16

The Luminor Marina, with its prominent crown guard, is the Swiss brand’s best-known design. The 44-millimetre timepiece has received some updates this year, including brighter luminous numbers, a slimmer movement and an improved steel bracelet that allows for tool-free adjustment.

Image credit: Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB003

12/16

This update of the Spring Drive technology lives up to its Ultra Fine Accuracy designation. Part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGB003 has accuracy of plus or minus 20 seconds a year and claims to be the most accurate watch powered by a mainspring in the world.

Image credit: H.Moser & Cie

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

13/16

Launched in 2020, the Streamliner is one of the most successful of the recent high-end sports watches. It’s accented with a blue fumé effect made by a thin layer of lacquer over an engraved and stamped dial.

Image credit: Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

14/16

The brand’s robust diver has been given ceramic highlights in a hue called Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50, against stainless steel. The 43-millimetre case looks the part, with matching Méga Tapisserie pattern dial, white-gold hour markers and light-blue counters.

Image credit: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day

15/16

There’s lots to like about this white-gold Calatrava. But the real story is the manually wound calibre, which offers eight days of power reserve with the maker’s Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar, a silicon derivative, boosting energy efficiency.